Taxi strikes & winter is coming

Work is progressing slowly overall, but now on top of that a taxi strike has crippled people without cars and money for cabs. On Thursday, I went downtown as per usual, only to find out that the taxis were striking and the connection minibus drivers were too afraid to drive. They said the strikers would attack taxis that would try to make money while they were on a strike. I thought about staying in town and waiting until the taxis would drive again but I am glad I ended up taking a cab home, since the strike has been unruly and violent.

This has gone on for 4 days now, everything is stagnant. I try to do GIS and thesis meanwhile, but it is hard on my muscles for long periods without a table. You see, my bed is my office. You’d think that’s ideal but I can tell you it is not! There is a table in the common areas of this house, but it is even dirtier than my room, and it is impossible to concentrate there since the 11 ppl who occupy this house are cooking there, making music, listening to music, watching tv and just generally doodling.

The winter is settling into Durban: I sleep with 3 blankets. Then again during daytime, it can be scorching hot! It is an experience by itself, the African winter. Maybe we will even see snow with Vesa, when we venture up north towards the uKhahlamba (zulu, meaning: barrier of spears) mountains for 5 days of hiking. Despite all, I am with good spirits, and I don’t look forwards to returning to Europe. I actually fear the moment the plane departs African soil, since I know that I won’t be able to return in a while. Even if I do come back, it is unlikely that I will go to South Africa again. Knowing that makes me feel like a big hand with claws is squeezing my insides.

Touching ground

A rainy day serves as an excuse for self-loathing, but I am not falling into that trap. I have overdone my travels so far – I did jump off an aeroplane, ride a horse next to a herd of roaring wildebeest, presented my findings to the EU team, saw a rugby game, and played the minibus taxi conductor (again. WHY ME?). So what’s next? Perhaps I have been too eager to experience. I haven’t walked in a quiet pace. There will be time for that though, and that time is looming there in the horizon already. It will mean a cocoon of welcome safety, tying of thoughts, and a well missed solitude.

Dear South Africa, you test me. You challenge me. You surprise me. What is there that I should not love?

Revival

So, I’ve had the best Sunday in a long time. In the morning, on a moments whim, I went to a great art gallery nearby. They had a very intriguing and pictoresque photograph exhibition by Cedric Nunn. A shame they didn’t sell any of those photos as postcards, you would have gotten one. Being an early bird, I drank coffee in their lounge, reading the local newspaper, waiting for the gallery to be opened.

After, I walked up the hill back home, laid myself in the sun reading collaborative planning theory and underlined the following sentence: “Reading the landscape of knowledge production is no less important than knowing who might have particular information.” It made me feel better about my research and my progress, as it happens, I have learned more than I think, the way I learnt it is was just… unusual.

Today I said goodbye to the Swiss (chemist) researcher, who has been a great person to talk to. One of his quotes that appealed to me is: “People here work for living. I like it. It is unlike in Switzerland, where people live for their work.” Having lived under the same roof with him for a month, I have many other insights safe in my head to thank him for. One of the best things about traveling is certainly the people that you meet, and the time you find to engage with them.

After the Swiss had left, I prepared a nice light lunch and tasted local rye bread, which was more like the Finnish limppu than REAL rye bread ;) . I ate outside in the garden and marvelled at the views to the city. The cat kept me company.

I managed to buy proper hiking boots for Drakensberg, although it took a nice chunk of my budget; the price was the same as it would have been in Finland. But I believe it is a good investment, since I love hiking, and I have a feeling that my mountaineer career is not over either…!

Tomorrow I’m moving to a shared flat with young people, and locals too. I am not sure if their internet is working yet, so you might not hear from me in a while. E-mails etc. won’t reach me either. On an urgent matter, my SA phone number should work: +27787736966.

PS: I was in the news :)

Frustration

I know, being generally naive and good willing, that I will never completely grasp the SA humor, but right now this book cover does provide some consolation to the way I feel about my research :)

A negative post

Just to let you know, a lot of s*** has happened as well. But since my mother is also reading this blog, and I don’t want to worry her (too much), I won’t say much.

Yesterday I was dropped off at a wrong destination (a confusing mix of hurry, dead cell phone batteries and late taxis). It was not a nice area as the name of the street would ironically suggest (Quality street) or as an old lady described (“what are you doing here? The boys here don’t play nice”). I panicked, but, luck was on my side since a co-worker drove by and saw me on the streets and saved me from certain doom :) . I have also been followed around plus the typical sexist proposals. Atm I am not extremely motivated because of these experiences, and because work is progressing so slowly, but I am persistent and I will push through!

A thesis count down can be found from here. Or a countdown to see Vesa. Actually, both :)

How to use taxis in Durban – guide for dummies!

The minibuses, called ‘taxis’ deserve an entry of their own. This entry might seem a bit chaotic because, well, it is a bit chaotic. But after you get used to the system, it actually flows nicely.

- If you want to hop on a taxi that is passing by, just raise your hand. They pick you up from anywhere, there is no strict ‘bus stops’. Quite often they will also hoot to get your attention and it means the same as asking: ‘do you need a ride?’ Before getting into a taxi, if you are unsure where it is headed to, you should always ask. Different destination taxis sometimes operate on same roads for a short while, so this is essential!
- The stressing part with taxis is to learn where they are going, especially if you don’t know the city very well. If you have a specific destination in mind, first ask around for the taxi that will take you to the specific suburb, then ask the driver if his route goes past landmarks close to your destination. Landmarks such as hospitals, schools, malls, garages etc. are commonly used. Sometimes the driver will prefer you communicate with the conductor and he’ll deliver the information to the driver.
- Sometimes the taxi will get behind a parked line of taxis and usher everyone out. Wish to still continue your journey? Just walk to the first car in the line. Whenever this happens to me, I have never been asked to pay until I’m in the car that takes me to my final destination. Dunno how the first one gets income. I guess they have a deal.
- There is no schedules, but I never had to wait too long. The taxis will stop running after dark.
- If you get on board on a taxi station, usually they won’t start driving until the taxi is full, so be prepared to wait.
- Police will sometimes stop taxis, because they have a bad reputation of driving recklessly, drunk, without a license and with unfit vehicles. I haven’t had too bad experiences though, this is just something I heard.
- The taxis don’t always use the same routes, but they will use more or less the same routes. There are stop names on their routes, but you will only learn about them from talking to people. If you don’t know you stop name but you want to get off you can always shout something like stop here although it is a bit rude not to be able to warn the driver beforehand.
- They will drop people off in the middle of traffic lights, traffic jams etc. They will speed, and there are no safety belts.
- Sometimes the drivers like to listen to music. Quite often they also like to listen to it very loud. By loud I mean your ass will jump by the power of the bass :)
- On peak hours some taxis charge 1-2 rands more.
- Payment is a sophisticated culture in taxis. The amount can vary, just ask people. When you see people getting money from their pouches, prepare to pay yourself. Sometimes the conductor will prefer to wait with the payments until the taxi is full / it is on a highway, so that he can concentrate on counting the money and not in getting more customers. But there is no rule here, sometimes you just have to pay right away when the taxi moves. Carry small cash like 5 rands and 2 rands to avoid trouble, I know people who have been ’charged’ as much as 50 rands for a drive because they paid with a 100r bill.
- When paying, you pass your money forward to the person sitting in front of you, they will pass the money forward. Keep in mind what you are supposed to get back because the conductor can get confused.
- If you are not sitting in the last row, it is very possible you will be asked to pass money to the front. Then they will give you a handful of money and say how many people are paying with it, for example, you get 25 rand and a person says ‘four’. Then you just pass on the money and the ‘four’. If you are adding your own payment to it, you then of course say ‘five’, and add your money to the pile. If you pay a 9 rand trip with a 10 rand bill in this situation, you are allowed to take your change from the pile before it reaches the conductor. It’ll be easier for him to count and manage bills after all.
- Sometimes the taxi is full and there is no conductor at all. In this case the first row will have to count all the money and see if it is enough and pass change back to ppl. I had to do this once now and it was confusing as hell :)

History & culture

- I’ve talked to people, and learned that the taxis have their specific routes and territories, like gangs do. They are operated by ‘mafia’. If a wrong taxi driver goes to drive some route that is not in his territory, there will be trouble. I’ve spoken to a person who was in such a situation and there was a gunfight because of it. Apparently (please correct me if you know better) all of this is because during the apartheid, black people weren’t allowed to be entrepreneurs, but people still needed to move around. So these taxi cartels formed. Now, it is impossible for the government to try and make taxi business legal, taxed, and try to control their routes (towards more convenient perhaps…?) because of the invisible territories that have formed, and also because people couldn’t afford the raised fares.
- My workmate travels to work from a part of town that is relatively close to work. With a car it would take her 10 minutes to go to work. But there is a taxi territory border cutting her way to work. This means she will have to change transport modes and go around the territory, resulting in almost 1 hour travel!
- There are some government controlled bus lines, but they are not popular. I usually see only 1 or 3 people sitting in them. People are so used to taking the taxis and to the taxi culture that they are afraid of using government buses, of which the schedules are unknown, and the stops are not close to you, whereas when traveling with a minibus taxi they sometimes go right past your front door.
- Sometimes the taxi will stop at a guy with a white paper which is some sort of list. They hang out at certain places. They write something to the list. I have no idea what this procedure means! It also occurs seemingly random. Have to ask people about that!
- I would really love to attach pictures from / of the taxis, but haven’t felt safe to carry my camera on them. Sorry for being such a wossy :)

Taking care

I have received a t-shirt as a post package from my mother. It says “University of Helsinki est. 1640. Mom, are you afraid the other Universities are taking me over and I won’t remember where I came from anymore? Hahah. Well, the shirt is great and it really made me feel loved. Thank you :’)
My field diary is overflowing with information, mainly discussions with people with different backgrounds. Here are some samples:

- Having to do everything by myself from scratch sometimes makes me feel like I am building a house with a shovel and a bucket. It would be so relieving, the possibility to talk with people in the same situation.
- Talked with a New York based doctor who is conducting HIV research in SA. His opinion was that community knowledge gathering is very essential because if you just do plain surveys you very easily miss stuff by just not being able to ask the right questions.
- Talked with a resident of Merewenth (a part of my research area). He said it is easier to move the people from the debated South Durban Basin area than the industry. He said: “People are free to leave. People who have their industry jobs are lucky (because unemployment is so high), they don’t care about pollution so much.” To him increasing amount of trucks are not a problem, he is used to them, they are not dangerous. Then he told me his story, which was kind of a model example of stereotype downward cycle. He had been itching for 2 months, but doesn’t trust doctors because if you use your money you still might not get pills. Instead he blamed himself for the itch and said God was punishing him for eating pork. He is drinking 4 days a week, 3 wine bottles per day – he offered to show me all the shebeens (unlicenced bars). I said no.
- I find it a little challenging to conduct action research, since I don’t necessarily agree with the endeavours of the NGO (like ‘100% green energy’ etc) but I think I’ve pulled it off quite nicely in my own fashion.
- What is much harder is coping with the creeping fear that keeps building up from reading newspapers, watching news and doing questionnaires at the area. At first I felt relatively safe commuting there alone, but the more I know the more stressful the situation becomes. Let me elaborate what I mean. I learned that the schoolchildren of the area feel safe walking to school every day, because they are protected by gangs and I won’t describe the names of the gangs, the roads they operate in and places they hang out because they do stab people and some of them carry guns.

It has been very eye opening times here. Next Saturday I am marching with 4000 people against (dangerous) trucks on community roads. People live very harsh lives in the research area. And people living in the suburbs where I reside have their own separate reality… The whole situation is nothing you can grasp from literature or leisure travel. But I’m still me. Especially with this t-shirt ;)

Rainbow overflow

I am sitting in a bus going through golden fields, coloured by the slowly setting sun. A week has passed since I arrived. It feels triple the time: all the experiences, people and their lifestories that I have come to know contributing to the feeling. I’ve learnt a lot, although not necessarily in the field that I expected. I could already write a novel of what has happened to me, and who I have met. This makes me feel baffled – it is hard to highlight selected things, for I feel I am discriminating the other side. The other side that you can not read nor imagine. The other side that is safely itched into my being, as a real adventure always changes you, just like I stated in this blog some years ago.

Rainbow nation they call it. Well, it is true. And it is, at the same time, one of the most wonderful and most challenging characteristics of this place. To a Venezuelan student, this place is an escape from the stiff, unsurprising life. A greek taxi driver, after staying here for 20 years, is still processing the apartheid. A rootless activist goes about the continent, filling his purpose. I could go on and on with this. Consequently, a small scale challenge has been the wide range of different accents. Today I tried to understand at least five different accents, of which the Zulu and Korean have been the hardest to go through for me. Even the locals are battling with the accents, so I needn’t worry as much as I do.

I am on my way to Johannesburg and the cradle of humankind. A week has passed since I arrived.

Finding the joy

I have been updating this blog about the Netherlands much less than the country and the memorable experiences that we have gained here deserve. I’ve kept a photo diary to keep my family members up to date, it can be found from here. The captions are in Finnish because the intended audience was even more narrow than the audience of this blog. But since I’ve been so mingy with my words, the pictures might even up the situation a little. The real reason for the absence of my voluntary creative productivity is the University of Amsterdam! It was all worth the sacrifice though, because now I’m in for a new challenge.

In late March, I’m heading to Durban, South Africa, for thesis fieldwork. I am lucky, because one of my professor saw my passion through my homework. She proposed this opportunity to me – in South Africa, I will be working under the framework and guidance of large institutions. At the same time, I’ll be able to exchange thoughts and ideas with the grassroots of process conflicts, so interesting, eye-opening times lay ahead.

I remember having a rejuvenating feeling on my travels in Africa. Every day is different, with an element of change and the possibility to challenge myself. I even remember remembering this on various occasions, so I guess it means that I am really attached to what I do. Saying goodbye to video games and general web doodling isn’t hard at all! It’s time to grasp the things that really make me feel alive, like being inspired by hard work, creativity and beauty, and writing it all down in a patient, loving manner. Detours seem to have become the main road for me. Come to think of it, being called the border guard at kindergarden makes more sense to me every day.

Seven million cubic meters of sand

Adjusting to life in Amsterdam is easy. It isn’t THAT much of a change to Helsinki, but sure there is always something different to ponder about and keep your mind busy.

We live on an island that was built on the sea because it became challenging to find space to expand the city. Because of that there is a unique problem here – spiders. Spiders swarm the balconies, bicycles, cars, supposedly because there is not enough natural predators. On the internet locals are demanding authorities to act! I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s useless to try and take the spiders down – they come back in half a day. So I may as well accept the unbalanced coexistence with them and think of it as an exotic experience.

Our apartment is beautiful and we have a lot of space. I call it the palace – Vesa did quite a job to get this for us! The cat likes it too.

This evening I went for a walk on the waterfront close by. Although it was late, the air was warm, and it reminded me about southern nights. I sat on stairs that led to the sea and saw the swelling darkness with an eased mind. I felt content. I’ve created this action-pattern of taking long thoughtful walks long ago (used to repeat it in Tervasaari more than 6 years ago) and now it kind of came alive again. It’s fitting, but I’m unable to find any reasoning as to why I actually do it. Perhaps its the mere knowledge of a continuum that comforts a dubious mind.