Ruumiillista uskonnollisuutta ja tunteita Tiibetissä

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Teksti Johanna Jylhä

Heinäkuun viimeiset päivät vuonna 2014 olivat helteisiä ja minä pakkasin vimmaisesti rinkkaani pitkää matkaa varten. Olimme kuvataiteilijaystäväni kanssa lähdössä kauan odotetulle reissulle Aasiaan. Tutustuimme aikoinaan opiskellessamme uskontotiedettä Turun yliopistossa ja siitä saakka meitä on yhdistänyt kiinnostus Aasian maihin, kulttuureihin ja uskontoihin. Olimme suhteellisen kokeneita ja riuskoja Aasian reissaajia jo ennestään, mutta tällä kertaa matkustimme Suomesta Intiaan saakka maata pitkin, pääasiassa junilla. Matkamme eteni niin kutsuttua Trans-Mongolia -junareittiä pitkin Moskovasta Baikal-järven ja Mongolian kautta Pekingiin, mistä jatkoimme Tiibetin ja Nepalin kautta Intiaan. Reissu kokonaisuudessaan oli unohtumaton, mutta kaikkein voimakkaimman vaikutuksen minuun teki Tiibet.

Tiibet on kiehtonut länsimaalaisia matkaajia pitkään ja käsitys ”mystisestä Tiibetistä” henkisyyden tyyssijana elää edelleen vahvana. Itse en odottanut henkistyväni Tiibetissä, mutta muistan ajatelleeni, että Tiibet (ja reissun päälle lähteminen ylipäänsä) voisi tarjota jonkinlaista irtiottoa kiireisestä ja tehokkuutta korostavasta nyky-yhteiskunnasta.

Reissuun lähtiessä meillä ei ollut varmuutta siitä, pääsisimmekö Tiibetiin. Virallisesti Tiibet on yksi Kiinan kansantasavallan maakunnista ja tunnetaan nimellä Tiibetin autonominen alue tai Keski-Tiibet. Niin sanottu etninen tai kulttuurinen Tiibet muodostaa yhtä kaikki paljon laajemman alueen. Tiibetin autonomiselle alueelle matkustaakseen ulkomaalaiset tarvitsevat matkustusluvan, jonka saaminen on viime vuosina vaihdellut. Itsenäisenä matkaajana Keski-Tiibetiin ei pääse lainkaan, vaan täytyy olla osa oppaan vetämää ryhmää ja matka pitää järjestää virallisen matkatoimiston kautta. Kuitenkin jo kaksi ihmistä voi muodostaa ryhmän ja parin viikon odottamisen jälkeen pääsimme matkaamaan Pekingistä Lhasaan maailman korkeinta Qinghai-Tiibet -junarataa pitkin.

Jylhä, Vuorten voimaTiibetiläistä maisemaa Qinghai-Tiibet -junan ikkunasta : jylhiä lumihuippuisia vuoria ja karun kaunista ruohoaroa. Kuva: Johanna Jylhä.

Tiibetiä kutsutaan toisinaan ”maailman katoksi”, sillä Tiibet sijaitsee keskimäärin yli 4,5 km merenpinnan yläpuolella ja käsittää maailman suurimman vuoristoalueen, Tiibetin ylängön. Junaradan korkein kohta on yli 5000 metrissä ja maisemat ovat henkeäsalpaavat. Vaikka junavaunuihin pumpattiin lisähappea, ilma oli niin ohutta, että saimme jo siellä lieviä vuoristotaudin oireita, kuten hengitysvaikeuksia ja pään kiristystä. Välillä mietin reissun aikana, johtuvatko hengen salpautuminen ja sydämen tykytys huimaavan kauniista maisemista, vai ilman ohuudesta. Luultavasti molemmista! Kehon ja mielen ollessa yhteensulautunut kokonaisuus voimistivat korkeudesta johtuneet fyysiset oireet entisestään tunnetta maiseman ja kokemuksen ainutlaatuisuudesta ja ihmeellisyydestä.

Perille päästyämme vietimme ensin pääkaupungissa Lhasassa viitisen päivää tutustuen alueen luostareihin, temppeleihin ja tiibetiläiseen pyhiinvaelluselämään. Lhasa on reilun puolen miljoonan asukkaan kaupunki ja Tiibetin hengellinen keskus, mikä näkyy pyhiinvaeltajien suuressa määrässä.

Jylhä, Levähdystauko pyhiinvaelluksella

Lhasan pyhiinvaeltajat rukousnauhoineen levähdystauolla. Kuva: Johanna Jylhä.

Tämän jälkeen aloitimme paikallisen oppaan ja kuljettajan kanssa vajaan viikon kestävän jeeppimatkan Tiibetin vuoristoisten maisemien halki kohti Nepalin Kathmandua Friendship Highway -nimellä tunnettua reittiä pitkin. Matkan varrella pysähdyimme muun muassa pyhällä Yamdrok-järvellä sekä yövyimme Gyantsen, Shigatsen ja Zhangmun kaupungeissa. Mukanamme oli tiibetiläinen opas, joka oli nuoruudessaan asunut ja opiskellut neljä vuotta tiibetinbuddhalaisessa Tashilhunpon luostarissa Shigatsessa. Häneltä saimme tärkeää tietoa Tiibetin kulttuurista, uskonnosta sekä tiibetiläisten asemasta Kiinan miehityksen alla.

Minkälaisen Tiibetin minä löysin? Ensinnäkin niin materiaaliselta kuin henkiseltä kulttuuriltaan hyvin rikkaan ja värikkään. Mieleeni painuivat muun muassa kallio- ja seinämaalaukset, tiibetiläiset kodit, luostarit ja muut perinteiset rakennukset, kankaalle tehdyt uskonnolliset kuvat eli thangkat, uskonnolliset esineet (esimerkiksi alttareilla esiintyneet, jakin voista veistetyt patsaat), tiibetiläisten perinteiset asut, korut sekä rituaalit ja muut yhteisöllisen kulttuurin muodot. Koristeelliset jumalhahmot ovat hyvin näkyvä osa perinteistä kulttuuria, samoin erilaiset uskonnolliset symbolit. Tuulessa heiluvia rukouslippuja näimme kaikkialla. Perinteinen kulttuuri olikin Tiibetissä edelleen vahvemmin läsnä kuin olisin osannut odottaa.

Jylhä, Valkoinen Tara

Kaikkien tuntevien olentojen äitinä ja myötätunnon ruumiillistumana nähty Valkoinen Tara on tärkeä hahmo tiibetiläisille. Kumbum-stupa, Gyantse. Kuva: Johanna Jylhä.

Tämä värikäs kansankulttuurinen Tiibet on kuitenkin vain eräs näkökulma Tiibetiin. Tiibetiläisten ja tiibetiläisen kulttuurin asema Kiinan kontrollin alla on tukala. Kohtasin myös köyhän Tiibetin, jonka asukkaat ovat omassa maassaan monin tavoin epätasa-arvoisessa asemassa koulutuksesta lähtien. Tiibet toki muuttuu ja modernisoituu, mutta modernisoituminen tarkoittaa usein kiinalaistumista. Han-kiinalaisten maahanmuutto lisääntyy jatkuvasti ja Lhasassa heidän määränsä ylittää tiibetiläisten määrän. Lhasa jakautuu selkeästi tiibetiläiseen vanhaan kaupunkiin Barkhoriin sekä alati laajenevaan Chinatowniin. Myös länsimaistuminen näkyy vahvasti suuremmissa kaupungeissa. Oppaamme mukaan luostareissa tiibetinbuddhalainen kulttuuri säilyy, mutta luostareitakin valvotaan tarkastuksin. Ympäröivässä yhteiskunnassa tiibetin kielen ja kulttuurin säilyminen käy yhä hankalammaksi.

 
Toki olin jo etukäteen tietoinen Tiibetin vaikeasta tilanteesta, mutta silti vasta paikan päällä silmäni todella avautuivat Kiinan ylivallalle, välillä tragikoomiselle propagandaretoriikalle sekä Tiibetin kiinalaistamiselle. Esimerkiksi Lhasan Tiibet-museossa Kiinan kansanarmeijan hyökkäystä ja Tiibetin miehitystä kutsuttiin ”Tiibetin rauhanomaiseksi vapauttamiseksi” ja ”demokraattiseksi uudistamiseksi”. Esillä oli myös mitä mielenkiintoisempia todisteluita sille, kuinka Tiibet on aina ollut osa ”suurta Äiti-Kiinaa”. Jeeppimatkamme opas oli avoimen kriittinen Tiibetin nykytilannetta kohtaan. 14. dalai-laman, Tenzin Gyatson Intian Dharamsalaan perustamaa Tiibetin pakolaishallitusta ei ole kansainvälisesti tunnustettu, mutta oppaamme piti sitä Tiibetin todellisena hallituksena.

Tiibetiläisten vapaudet heidän omassa maassaan ovat rajoitetut. Saimme matkallamme konkreettisesti nähdä Kiinan viranomaisten vallankäytön seuratessamme oppaamme ja kuljettajamme lukuisia yrityksiä saada leimat papereihinsa matkamme jatkumiseksi Nepalin rajalle. Tiibetiläiset eivät pääse edes Tiibetin sisällä matkustamaan vapaasti, vaan heidän täytyy hakea leimat poliisilaitokselta kaupungista toiseen matkustaessaan. Joskus näitä matkustusleimoja voidaan evätä täysin mielivaltaisesti. Tilanne oli nurinkurinen. Meidän viisumimme ja matkustuslupamme olivat pian umpeutumassa ja virallisen matkaohjelman aikataulun mukaan meidän piti tiettynä päivänä ylittää raja Nepalin puolelle. Ilman opasta ja kuljettajaa emme voineet sitä tehdä, koska ulkomaalaiset eivät saa Tiibetissä matkustaa omin päin tai käyttää julkista liikennettä. Opas ja kuljettaja olivat matkanjärjestäjän taholta palkattu ajamaan meidät rajakaupunki Zhangmuun, mutta meille tuntemattomasta syystä jouduimme odottamaan ja jännittämään matkan jatkumista leimojen eväämisen takia. Viidennellä yrityksellä (kun matkaa oli pakko päästä jatkamaan) leimat lopulta lyötiin. Oppaamme kertoi myös, että juuri vuonna 2014 oli 12 vuoden välein koittava erityinen vuosi pyhiinvaeltaa Kailash-vuorelle Länsi-Tiibetiin. Matkustuslupia oli kuitenkin evätty paljon, mikä oli ollut monelle tiibetiläiselle vaikea paikka.

Kohtasin matkalla myös uskonnollisesti hyvin hartaan Tiibetin. Oppaamme mukaan Tiibetin kulttuuri on yhtä kuin tiibetinbuddhalaisuus. Niin keskeisellä sijalla tiibetinbuddhalaiset uskomukset ja tavat edelleen ovat ihmisten päivittäisessä elämässä, tukahduttamisesta huolimatta.

Jylhä, Kaupungin laitamillaRukoukseen syventynyt tiibetiläisnainen Gyantsen perinteisen pikkukaupungin laitamilla. Kuva: Johanna Jylhä.

Ruumiilliset uskonnolliset rituaalit, kuten esimerkiksi kellonsuuntainen temppelien ja muiden pyhien paikkojen kiertäminen (kora) sekä rukousmyllyjen ja -nauhojen avulla tapahtuva rukoilu ovat edelleen olennainen osa tiibetiläistä elämänmenoa. Erityisen vaikuttavaa, monesti suorastaan liikuttavaa oli se suuri hartaus, jolla pyhiinvaeltajat ja ylipäänsä tiibetiläiset ihmiset suhtautuvat uskontoonsa. Seurasin Lhasassa Jokhangin temppelin edustalla, kuinka pyhiinvaeltajat tekivät tuntikausia keskittyen fyysisesti raskaita prostraatioita eli täyskumarruksia maahan heittäytymällä. Suojanaan ihmiset käyttivät kapeita, ohuita patjoja tai mattoja. Jotkut pyhiinvaeltajista myös kiersivät temppelialuetta ympäri täyskumarruksin.

 

Jylhä, TäyskumarruksetTäyskumarruksia tekevät pyhiinvaeltajat Jokhangin temppelin edustalla Lhasassa. Kuva: Johanna Jylhä.

Oppaamme korosti, että uhrausten, pyhiinvaellusten ja muiden tiibetinbuddhalaisten käytänteiden painopiste ei ole tässä, vaan seuraavassa elämässä. Uskonto kuitenkin eittämättä tuo tiibetiläisille voimaa ja rauhaa vaikeassa tilanteessa. Miehityksen seurauksena tiibetiläisten keskuudessa on entisestään vahvistunut pyrkimys suojella omaa kulttuuriperintöä ja tiibetinbuddhalaisuutta, jotka usein nähdään tiibetiläisten autonomiaa koskevien tavoitteiden symboleina.

Matkamme Tiibet-osuuden viimeinen etappi oli Zhangmun kaupunki Nepalin rajalla. Muutos korkeudessa ja maisemassa oli suuri. Vaikka komeat vuoristomaisemat ympäröivät myös Zhangmua, on maisema karun sijasta rehevää. Henki alkoi pitkästä aikaa kulkea normaalisti, mutta lähdön hetki Tiibetistä sekä ero oppaasta ja kuljettajasta kuristivat jälleen kurkkua. Olimme viettäneet tiiviisti aikaa yhdessä matkatessamme Lhasasta Nepalin rajalle saakka, nähneet ja oppineet paljon. Ylipäänsä Tiibet oli minulle emotionaalisesti hyvin voimakas kokemus. Muistan olleeni tämän tästä kyynelissä, olivat syynä sitten maisemat, kulttuurin ja perinteiden kauneus (ja tieto niiden uhanalaisuudesta) tai suru ja suuttumus tiibetiläisten epäoikeudenmukaisesta tilanteesta. En voi olla varma, kohtaammeko enää Tiibetin kanssa, mutta vahvat kokemukset kulkevat tunnemuistissa mukanani.

Kirjallisuutta:

Cantwell, Cathy & Hiroko Kawanami (2009). Buddhism. Teoksessa Linda Woodhead, Hiroko Kawanami & Christopher Partridge (toim.): Religions in the Modern World. Traditions and Transformations. London and New York: Routledge, 67-102.

Janhunen, Juha (2008). Tiibet – unelmien ja todellisuuden maa. Teoksessa Marjo-Riitta Saloniemi & Tiina Hyytiäinen (toim.): Muuttuva Tiibet. Tampere: Vapriikki, 10-39.

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