Some Tourism For a Change

Last Friday my mother came to Korea to visit us for two weeks. I don’t know if the main reason was to visit us, Korea, or just to see the Kids, but it’s still nice to have her come over. That was also a good excuse for doing some tourism, which has been seriously lacking in the 4 weeks I’ve been here. Seriously, I haven’t really done anything that you could classify as tourism in the whole time.

We had originally wanted to go to Jeju Island around Chuseok (which would be next weekend). However, since Chuseok is one of the two main Korean holidays and in addition this year being only 1 day away from 3rd of October which is also a holiday, traveling was impossible. There were basically no plane tickets to Jeju available (we started looking only about one month in advance), and Jeju being an island, flying is essentially the only option for a short trip. We tried to get flights to Jeju for this weekend, but prices were on the high side, so we decided to give Jeju a miss for now. I’ve already been there twice, so it was not a big loss for me.

Instead, we decided to explore another new corner of Korea for me, Seoraksan National Park. My Brother in Law very graciously lent us his car for the weekend, which made the whole trip very easy. Except of course that traffic in Korea, and in Seoul in particular, can be, shall we say politely, not quite as rule-abiding as in Finland. Then again, although I’ve never actually driven a car in Korea before, I’ve been in traffic in cars, buses, and taxis a lot and I did learn to drive in the South of France, so it can’t really be much worse. (And it isn’t.)

My mother arrived from Finland on Friday morning and in the afternoon we hopped in the car for the 200 km drive towards Seoraksan. It’s supposed to be about 3 hours of driving, but it took us over well one hour just to get outside of Seoul and onto the highway. Then it took almost 2.5 hours for the rest of the drive, but we made it safely. Traffic wasn’t actually that bad, and driving on a highway is very easy since there are two (or more) lanes, no cross traffic, and in general nothing nasty, besides speed cameras but the navigator was giving warnings for them. I did observe an interesting thing, namely that speed limits seem to be more a FYI than a rule. You could drive 10-20 km/h over the limit (which was 100 km/h) and still be overtaken by most other traffic (hypothetically speaking of course; I obviously wouldn’t drive 10-20 km/h over the limit, now would I πŸ™‚ ) It felt almost like driving on a German autobahn, except that the same “tolerance” about speed limits seems to apply on all roads.

The program for the weekend was easy. On Saturday, hiking in the Seoraksan National Park and on Sunday, visiting the coast and beaches near the city of Sokcho, not for sunbathing, but just to see the sea. I’ll post about those separately once I sort through all the photos I took.

Here’s some advance tastes of what is to come in the next episodes. This is the view from our hotel room. The mountain is called Ulsanbawi and I climbed most of the way to the top on Saturday.

Ulsanbawi at sunrise

This is from the Sunday excursion and we’re sitting, eating lunch here. You can guess what was on the menu.

Fishing boats

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Carded… Twice!

Remember my registration with the immigration authorities? The one which ended with them telling me that I can get my ID number in a few days and get the plastic card in 3 weeks? This whole thing turned out to be interesting.

Don’t get me wrong, on the immigration bureaucracy side, everything went as it was supposed to go, actually even better than it was supposed to go. It’s just that it turned out that without the plastic card, the ID number is next to useless. Having registered myself on August 27, later that week I got a piece of paper from the immigration office which effectively indicated my number and it was duly signed and stamped. I figured this would be good enough until I got the plastic card, but it wasn’t that simple.

First, I wanted to open a bank account. Not really, since I’m not getting any salary here in Korea, but because getting any kind of a sensible mobile phone plan, you need a Korean bank account. So, to the bank. Everything goes smoothly, I fill in the account opening form and then the lady asks for the actual immigration card. Nope, sorry, don’t have it, but here’s the piece of paper they gave me. No dice. No way to open an account before getting the physical plastic card. I guess this sort of makes sense, since the piece of paper seems pretty easy to forge and there is nothing on that piece of paper to tie it into my Finnish passport, i.e., it doesn’t show my passport number nor does it have any photo on it.

Second, I went to the mobile phone shop to get a prepaid plan. Prepaid is the only thing you can get without a bank account and at that point, I had already been in Korea for over a week and was getting frustrated about not being able to communicate with the Better Half who goes to classes in the morning. So, I figured I’ll take prepaid and maybe change it later. Next problem, being an iPhone user, I need a data connection. On a prepaid plan data is way, way beyond expensive. (This probably holds true in most countries.) I knew that you could get a separate WiFi plan and since my operator (KT or olleh, long story why I picked them; more on that later) has WiFi access points pretty much all over the city and subway, I figured that would be good enough. Ah, sorry Sir, you cannot get the WiFi plan without the plastic immigration card. Do I start to see a pattern here?

Well, the story has some good news as well. Although I was supposed to get my immigration card only this week (supposedly yesterday), it actually arrived on Friday 7th of September. That was great news! So why did it take me over a week to get going? One thing was the conference last week which ate up pretty much all of my days and on Monday this week, there was typhoon Sanba, so I only made the trek to the bank which is right next to where we live.

The bank was a very pleasant experience. They have a desk for foreigners, meaning someone who spoke fluent English was there. Everything went smoothly and many of the forms were in English. Not all though, but I had to sign them anyway, so I’m sort of wondering what I may have agreed to. πŸ™‚ With the bank account done, I went to get my mobile phone plan updated today and turned out that the account wasn’t exactly what they wanted, but luckily my bank also gave me a debit card which then was fine. More on the mobile phone plans to come later. They are a nice story as well and in the end there was a pleasant surprise for me.

So, all in all, I got the stuff done today, which is what would have happened, had the immigration card taken the full three weeks to arrive. Everything went pretty smoothly and the immigration card arriving early was a most welcome surprise. I can tell you from my own experience with my Better Half’s case that immigration office in Finland delivering cards ahead of schedule is not business-as-usual. In fact, even if everything is in order, you may still need to contact them separately so that they’ll actually order the card to be printed. They could learn something from the Koreans.

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Third Typhoon

Yet another typhoon came our way. This time it was typhoon Sanba and it was the strongest of the three so far. Well, strongest in the sense that at one point it time it had been a Cateogry 5 typhoon, the strongest there is, whereas Bolaven and Tembin were “only” Category 4 at their strongest points.

Good news is that by the time any of them got up here, they had weakened to about Category 1 or a tropical storm, and all of them managed to avoid Seoul to a good degree. Not saying that we didn’t observe them. Sure, there was wind and lots of rain and out of the three, Sanba was the worst, but nothing extraordinary here. On average, Korea sees three typhoons per typhoon season, so hopefully that was it for now.

Low clouds bringing rain into SNU campus from typhoon Sanba

SNU campus in rain

One interesting thing in Korea comes out during the rain, namely the little baggies for umbrellas. On a rainy day, many public buildings and shops have one of the below thingies near their entrance. Some smaller places might have only a large bucket where you leave your umbrella, but the contraptions below are very common in larger places.

Umbrellas

You fold your umbrella and then you insert it top down into the little baggy that is already waiting. You push down the umbrella and then pull it out towards the front. This detaches the baggy from the next baggy and pulls the next baggy in the ready-position. Pretty nifty and there’s usually a small one for small umbrellas and a large one for large umbrellas. The umbrella stays in the baggy while you are in and when you leave, you leave the baggy next to the contraption so that they can be collected and recycled.

The benefits of this is that you don’t get wet umbrellas dripping water all over the place making the floor slippery and possibly dangerous. One down side is that since the umbrella is in a plastic bag, it won’t have any chance whatsoever to dry, so the baggy remains somewhat damp. It beats putting a dripping umbrella in your bag, but it’s not the same as putting a completely dry umbrella in the bag; things may get wet or at least damp. Still, I find this a pretty nifty thing.

I’ve seen similar stuff in other Asian countries, so it’s not just Korea where you can see them. I’ve never seen something like this in Europe. One thing that obviously wonders me is which of the two approaches is more ecological and environmentally friendly. Making plastic baggies consumes resources (sure, recycling helps) but it keeps the buildings cleaner with less risk of accidents should people slip on the puddles left by water dripping from umbrellas. I don’t know which way this equation falls, but until someone actually puts the numbers together, I’ll happily slip my umbrella into the little baggy on a rainy day.

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Finland in Korea

Well, what do you know, I ran into something interesting today. After the conference and a dinner, I and a couple of others went for a drink near the conference venue. We went to Garosugil street, which is a popular area these days. The name means the street that is lined with trees that are next to a street, or so it was explained to me at least. There were a lot of people around, it was a Friday night after all.

Garosugil street in Seoul

On the way I also spotted the shop below.

Marimekko in Seoul

Yes, I was somewhat surprised to see a Marimekko store in Seoul, but seeing it, I remembered that yes, I had indeed heard of a Marimekko store in Seoul. Later that night, when I finally got home, The Better Half asked me if I had seen the Iittala store as well. It’s supposed to be in the same area, or that’s where she thought it would be. No, I didn’t see that, but maybe I’ll go back to hunt for it. I remember seeing Iittala glasses at the Lotte department store in downtown Seoul on some earlier trips. In case you’re in Seoul, this is near Sinsa subway station. I didn’t go in to check the prices, since that might have been somewhat of a shock.

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Conference Without Traveling

Today I’m attending the CFI conference here in Seoul. It’s very convenient to be able to attend a conference without traveling anywhere, well, commute via subway. On a normal year, I spend about 7 days worth of time on airplanes, not including the time it takes to get to the airport or times between connecting flights. Putting that into perspective, 7 days equals 168 hours and taking the standard Finnish workday of 7 hours 15 minutes, that means that I spend about 3 weeks of a normal person’s working time just on airplanes, getting to the place where I actually work, whether it’s a conference or a meeting. Obviously, I can theoretically work on the plane, but since the university makes us fly in cattle class, this is somewhat of a dream. This is what my “office” looks like during flights: (bonus points for figuring out the airline; should be easy for anyone who travels enough)

Sardine can

Sure, with that amount of flying, I do have a few funny-colored pieces of plastic in my wallet which occasionally, but very occasionally, result in an upgrade. So far my long-term average seems to be about 1 upgrade per year.

Where was I? Ah, going to a conference in Seoul, which today included taking the bus and subway, dropping off the Little One at the In-Laws on the way. Yes, it was pretty much on the way from our home to the conference site. The In-Laws live quite near to us, only 1 stop on the subway, plus a bus on our end and some walking on their end. Lucky for me, the worst of the rush hour had already passed, so negotiating public transport with a 2-year-old was pretty easy. The area where they live is still made up of small houses, like the picture below shows.

Small street

Nearby there are some bigger streets, taking me to the Isu subway station for an easy trip to the Hak-dong station and onwards on foot to the Imperial Palace hotel where the CFI conference is taking place.

Big street

There’s a whole week of Internet-related things going on and since I was here, it was very easy to participate.

Conference

Of course our university international payment department had, yet again, made a mess with paying my registration fee. Why didn’t I use a credit card? Well, Korean online credit card payment processing systems are not able to handle foreign cards (more on that later) so the options are either a bank transfer or paying cash on-site. I figured the former would be easier, since the second option would entail me racking up ATM charges for withdrawals and messing with receipts, with the ever-so-slight possibility of a receipt going missing and making a mess of the reimbursement. This made me sway towards the first option, even though I know that the university’s payment department bats at well below 0.500 in getting wire transfers right. I’m not just talking about international payments, they once made a mess of a domestic payment in Finland. Seriously, I’m not kidding with the “below 0.500”, since in the 5 years I’ve been here, they’ve messed up more than half of the payments and usually in different ways every time. At least this time I do have a confirmation that the payment has been made last Thursday, but obviously it doesn’t show up here yet. Hopefully this gets sorted out so that I can get lunch here.

As I wrote, one of the main benefits of attending a conference in your own city is not having to travel long distances. However, this still leaves traveling from your home to the conference site, which can also take some time. I learned this the hard way during the Sigcomm conference in the summer. There I also had the added difficulty of being a part of the organizing team, meaning that I had to be there pretty early every day and with a 1 hour commute each way, sleep was sort of an unknown concept. I don’t expect this week to be as bad, since the commute is (a bit) shorter and I don’t have to be there early.

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Photos

Long time ago, when I still had some free time, I considered photography to be sort of a hobby. I have what used to be a decent camera, well, still is, since it’s a DSLR and the lenses do not get obsolete at the same speed as camera sensors. Not that there’s anything wrong with my camera and 8 MP is plenty for taking photos.

I took my camera and a couple of lenses with me, hoping to find some time for getting back into taking photos and also sharing them on this blog. The former is still in the plan, but the latter has been partly shot down by our friendly blog administrators. They have provided a princely 30 MB of storage space for files. No, that’s not a typo, 30 _mega_ bytes, which in the modern age of petabytes and cameras producing 5 MB+ images is more an insult than useful. (I suppose I should be grateful, since the instructions for the blog server mention each user having 10 MB of storage, so it’s been worse before.) Uploading 1 lousy photo ate about 15% of my storage allotment and I just don’t think I’ll be able to make it through the year with 6 photos. (Yes, you can ask for more storage, but would it really kill anyone to give a bit more storage? After all, it’s not like there’s tons of blogs hosted on our server…)

Which then brings me to Flickr, which I’ve been using for many years now and where I’ve uploaded lots of photos in the past. You can check out my photo stream, the set of photos from Korea from my past trips, or any of the other photos.Β I’ll also keep on uploading photos from this year on Flickr. Some of them will be used in the blog, but not all, so there’s more stuff there than you’ll find here

Yes, so this posting was a shameless plug for my photos on Flickr. And? Just click on those links, all the photos are SFW. πŸ™‚

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Settling In

First week is almost done and I’ve just come home from my Korean language class. I’m enrolled in an evening class at the university language center to brush up on my language. I have class twice a week, Mondays and Thursdays, both from 18:30 to 21:20. But more on that later.

Daily routines are falling in place quite quickly. I have an office where I can work in peace and quiet, but we’re also starting to work on joint topics with my collaborators here. Our apartment also has a small office corner where I can set up my laptop, get connected, and keep on doing things. Showing a considerable amount of foresight, I had purchased Apple’s Airport Express, so that I can connect it to the wired network of the building and share the WiFi with all of our phones, laptops, and tablets. It works quite well and in case of problems, all the rooms in the apartment also have an Ethernet port. I only have one cable, but getting one more should not be too tricky.

The campus is rather large, but not too large for walking from A to B. The only problem relating to walking is that it’s built on a hill, well, a mountain actually. Seoul is pretty much surrounded by relatively high mountains, so almost anywhere you go, you need to go up or down. (Our home being towards the second entrance of the campus means we’re “low”, so every day starts by going “up”.) Then again, weather has cooled from the sweltering 30+ degrees to a much nicer 25 degrees, so walking is actually quite pleasant. And going up and down is obviously good exercise. The campus used to be a golf course, but, amazing as it may sound, given Korean fondness for golf, the light of knowledge triumphed over money. Then again, that happened in the 70’s, so maybe that explains it…

This is my home office, taken when we had just moved in, so that explains why it’s still empty.

Home office

Here’s my real office, which I share with another person, but as I’ve understood, “he might show up on some Tuesdays” in practice means it’s mine to use. Yes, I play Angry Birds and The Better Half bought me that bird.

Office

And the view from my office is to a small field, where every late afternoon, kids come for football training.

Jumpers for goalposts

IΒ can’t help but think of Ron Manager’s comments about kids in the park, jumpers for goalposts, marvelous, isn’t it? And on the topic of Ron Manager, I just can’t resist posting his comments about Gary Lineker… πŸ˜‰

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Home, Sweet Home

Ah, I’m sitting on the balcony of our new home (well, temporary home, but you get my drift), sipping a cold one, and enjoying re-runs of MacGyver from Finnish TV. Does life get much better? Technically, I’m also enjoying the view, but since it’s dark, I can’t verify that what I saw in the morning is still there, but the picture below shows the view how it was this morning, our first morning here.

Seoul in the morning

 

Yes, we left the safety of the in-laws, and moved into an empty apartment at the university guest house. Well, empty is technically not true, since there is a fridge with a freezer, a bed with a mattress, table in the kitchen (sort of part of the fixed kitchen, so not sure if that counts as separate furniture), 3 chairs in the kitchen, and one chair in the little office corner. There’s tons of storage space though, making this probably the first place I’ve lived in where I have more storage space than stuff. Obviously, lack of stuff helps quite a lot in making that impression. πŸ™‚

Today has been the re-boot day. As anyone who’s moved to foreign countries, the beginning is like putting your life together from scratch, piece by piece, starting with the eternal questions, such as, what brand of toilet paper is good? Globalization has made this much less exciting, at least when moving within Europe, but coming to Korea is a lot bigger jump into the unknown. I do know the alphabet and basics of the language, but that’s not really enough. Lucky for me, I have a native live-in interpreter whose interests in getting the life into order align with mine.

Getting the basics together involved shopping for home appliances (microwave, rice cooker, hair dryer, iron and ironing board), then getting something to fill the empty fridge. Because the contents of the fridge also need to provide adequate nourishment for the Kids, beer is probably not the best way to fill it, tempting though it might be (and my doctor would also disagree). The in-laws have helped a lot, by giving us frying pans, utensils, etc. to get bootstrapped, so that meant a little less shopping for us. There is a reasonable market at Nakseongdae station, about 5 minutes by bus from here and as usual in Korea, they also deliver your purchases (at no extra cost, but assuming a minimum purchase of 20,000 KRW). The home appliance shop obviously also offered delivery so out of the 5 things we bought, 2 are still on their way.

Tomorrow is then the big day when everything finally starts. My daughter starts her kindergarten and I go to the office to meet my collaborators, so I should make sure I get enough sleep. But before that, one more beer and one more MacGyver. πŸ™‚

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Two-Typhoon Week

As I wrote in the last post, I’ve been busy running around getting things sorted out, but two little things have one some days kept me home, namely typhoons Bolaven and Tembin. Bolaven came closest to us on Tuesday, but it was far enough out to sea when it was near Seoul that all we got was some strong winds and rain. Tembin came a little bit closer, although by the time it was near us, it had degraded into a tropical storm and all we got was a whole day of continuous, occasionally heavy rain.

In 2003 I got to experience typhoon Maemi, one of the strongest ever to hit Korea and I was not too far away from its path. At the time, I was visiting Gyeongju, the historical capital of Korea, and Maemi made for an interesting night. Wind was blowing extremely heavily, it was raining, and my hotel room was right at the end of the building, so the wind was actually blowing directly on my room’s wall. Nothing bad happened, but the following morning was quite interesting with lots of uprooted and fallen trees all over the city. TV also showed interesting footage of the damage Maemi had done on the southern coast, with beached ships, fallen cranes in harbors, etc.

Today was a clear, and not so hot day. That was a nice change from the weather so far. Hopefully it’ll get a little bit cooler, although given the choice of the weather here or the +16 C currently in Helsinki, I think I’d go for the warmer weather. πŸ™‚

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Bureaucracy

I arrived safely in Korea on Saturday and so far have mainly been taking care of bureaucratical issues (and surviving typhoons, but more on those later).

First, the optimist has won again! As expected, I got the apartment in the university guest house, not that I really ever doubted it. Now all I need to do concerning that part is to pay the deposit and first months rent, which is planned for tomorrow. Then we should be able to move in on the weekend at the latest, which is good since on Monday I’m supposed to start working and my daughter is starting her kindergarten at the university kindergarten right next to our apartment. Having to stay somewhere else would be a bit of a drag in terms of getting her there in the mornings. This way is much better.

Second, I got my foreigner registration done on Monday as well. This means that sometime later this week I will be able to get my registration number, sort of like the ID number in Finland (as in without the number everything is difficult/impossible and with it everything becomes easy). The process itself was extremely pleasant. πŸ™‚ I went to the Seoul Immigration Office with my Better Half (easier to have a native with you) and we asked at the reception where to go. They asked what kind of a visa I had and when they learned that I had an E-1 visa (visiting professor), they instructed us to go into a small room with 4 counters and 2 people waiting, as opposed to the large room with the great unwashed on the other side of the lobby with long lines. This special room was for “Global talents” and “Investors”, with my line being for talents and people investing more than USD 500 000. Since I don’t have 500 large to drop, I guess this confirms I am a talent. πŸ™‚ I was missing one critical piece of paper, Seoul National University business registration, but this sorted itself with a quick phone call to the university and they faxed the paper to the immigration officer while we were still processing my case. Which was nice. I should be able to pick up some confirmation of my status later this week and I will get my official registration card in the mail in 3 weeks. This makes Korea the 7th country in which I officially exist, in the sense of being registered in the local systems with a local ID number or equivalent.

Other than that, not much has happened. Weather has been hot, humid, and sort of sunny. Kids have made some friends at the local playground, but that’ll unfortunately change when we move to the university over the weekend. Hopefully there will be a playground as well there.

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